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Banana fibers refined for textiles, hair extensions

Ugandan researchers are transforming discarded banana stems into textiles, hair extensions and sanitary pads, positioning the East African nation to capitalize on growing global demand for sustainable fibers.
The Banatex-EA (Banana Textiles in East Africa) project at Busitema University, eastern Uganda, has created spinnable banana fiber that can be used in textile production, presenting an alternative to cotton and synthetic materials, the researchers say.
Project leader Edwin Kamalha, a lecturer in textile engineering at the university, says the initiative will make banana production less wasteful and provide an extra source of revenue for farmers.
"It's a plant that generates a lot of waste, and if people can tap into that waste to earn an extra income, what was once discarded can become a valuable resource," he says.
Banana fibers share several desirable properties with cotton, Uganda's most widely used natural textile fiber, Kamalha explains. He believes the global impact of using it in textiles could be significant.
The team began their research in March 2024.
Bananas are one of the most widely grown staple food crops in Uganda, cultivated by about three quarters of farmers. However, a significant amount of the harvested plant becomes post-harvest waste.
Most farmers, like Michael Ssali, currently leave banana pseudo-stems鈥攖he stems that transports nutrients from the soil to the fruit鈥攊n their gardens after harvest.
"They act as fertilizer when they decompose," says Ssali.
Fiber quality
A major hurdle for the Banatex-EA project has been making banana fiber suitable for textile production.
"Banana fiber is naturally stiff and coarse, making spinning it into thread more difficult," Kamalha explains.
His team focused on developing techniques to soften the fiber, making it more like cotton. This enabled them to produce spinnable banana fiber for cloth and hair extensions.
The researchers partnered with TEXFAD, a Ugandan textile producer, to commercialize these products. They are also working with the Uganda National Bureau of Standards to develop official quality standards for banana fiber products.
Research by the National Agricultural Research Laboratories has identified specific varieties that work best for fiber production.
Abdullah Kaggwa, project coordinator at the laboratories, said, "We piloted products using existing banana varieties. It became very clear, however, that our indigenous variety, Musa or Kayinja, performed the best."
"The Kayinja variety, locally used to make banana brew, was found to have stronger fiber and has a shinier appearance, making it more visually appealing and ideal for products like textiles and hair. It also yielded more fiber during extraction compared to other varieties."
Legislative challenges
Despite technical progress, the project faces significant challenges. Uganda has yet to pass a biotechnology bill, limiting options for genetic improvement of banana varieties for fiber production.
"You could introduce a variety specifically bred for fiber, not food, that might be allowed. But without a law on genetic engineering, progress is limited," says Kaggwa.
"If you're transferring genes from a banana variety used for food to one intended for fiber, the law currently does not permit that."
Market entry presents another hurdle for banana fiber products.
According to Kamalha, banana fiber is relatively new in global trade, so lacks specific identifiers like harmonized system (HS) codes, which are used to classify products internationally. "Without these codes, entering certain markets becomes very difficult," he says.
Consumer acceptance poses another challenge.
Carol Namuli, who has used banana fiber hair extensions, says she prefers human hair, even if it is more expensive, because it can be reused multiple times and lasts longer without getting damaged.
Kamalha's team is working with Moi University in Kenya to assess market potential.
"Our preliminary findings show that consumers are generally open to sustainable products like banana fiber鈥攖he interest is there," he said, while acknowledging that high production costs remain a challenge.
Future growth
Despite these hurdles, industry partners say banana fiber is the next best thing.
"I can say that banana fiber is the next fiber for everything," says Kimani Muturi, executive director at TEXFAD.
His company has trained young people in fiber processing techniques, and is confident that banana fiber can drive growth in the textile industry.
Andrew Kiggundu, a biotechnology consultant, believes market demand will be crucial.
"Nothing develops without a strong market foundation," he says. "If we can re-develop the market so that people actively seek out these products, then production will naturally accelerate."
Provided by SciDev.Net